Istanbul Attractions
Shopping
Perhaps it was the renown of the Grand Bazaar that put Istanbul on the map of the world's great shopping destinations. Paris isn't the only destination in Europe where visitors drop in for the weekend for a whirlwind spending spree, not with the hunting grounds of Old Istanbul and the elegant boutiques of the new one at your fingertips.
Where Should I Go?
Any shopping tour of the city will inevitably begin with the Grand Bazaar. Pay particular attention to the exclusive shops along Kapaliçarsi Caddesi leading up to the Nuruosmaniye entrance to the Grand Bazaar. Less overwhelming in scope are the shops located in the Arasta Bazaar and its extension along Kücük Ayasofya Caddesi, and in the modest Avrupa Pasaji in Beyolglu's Balikpazari. Savvier shoppers should seek out stores located on the forgotten back streets, because the owners of these are hungrier than those in more highly trafficked areas, and therefore more willing to cave in on your final price.
The Egyptian Spice Bazaar (Misir Çarsisi; closed Sun) in Eminönü is another mandatory stop on any shopping tour, although its initial merchandise of exotic spices from the East has expanded to include T-shirts and that spongy Turkish delight. For handicrafts, ceramics, and gifts displayed in the historic setting of an old medrese, head to the Istanbul Handicrafts Center, Istanbul Sanatlari Çarsisi, across from the Blue Mosque and next to the Dervis Tea Gardens, with former classrooms arranged around a central courtyard now displaying fine-quality hand-painted silks, Anatolian dolls, calligraphy, and miniatures crafted by local artists. There's also a quality souvenir shop with fixed prices.
Istiklal Caddesi, from Beyoglu to Taksim, could be in any major city in the world, a bustling promenade of cafes, clothing stores, blaring record shops, and bookstores. A short taxicab ride away to the northeast of Taksim is the trendy neighborhood of Nisantasi, a pleasant cross between New York's SoHo and Madison Avenue. Boutiques along Tesvikiye Caddesi and in the smaller side streets of the neighborhood are stocked with high-quality merchandise in elegant settings, with major names like Mudo, Emporio Armani, Vakko, and Beyman.
Istanbul also has more than its fair share of outdoor markets, selling the usual assortment of fresh produce, sweatshirts, and maybe the odd antique. A walk through one of these provides yet another opportunity to witness another facet of this complex culture. There is a flea market between Sahaflar and the Grand Bazaar every Sunday, in the Horhor Market located in Akisaray on weekends, and on Çukurcuma Sokagi in Cihangir daily. The arts-and-crafts fair on Sundays in Ortaköy has become more of an outlet for jewelry and revolutionary Turkish ideas; still it's a fun place to spend the afternoon.
What Should I Buy?
The first thing that comes to mind when plotting out a plan of attack for acquisitions in Turkey is a rug, be it a kilim or tribal carpet. Carpets, kilims, and a whole slew of related items that have lost their nomadic utility comprise an indescribably complex industry, but it is unlikely that you will get very far before being seduced by an irresistible excess of enticing keepsakes.
Most people are unaware that Turkey manufactures some of the best leather items in Europe, comparable in quality to those sold in Florence, Italy (and in some stores in Florence, the merchandise is Turkish). Because leather items are individually produced in-house, quality and fit may vary, but the advantage of this is that you can have a jacket, skirt, or trousers made to order, change the design of a collar, or exchange an unsightly zipper for buttons at prices far less than what you'd pay back home.
The entire length of Kalpakçilar Caddesi in the Grand Bazaar glitters with precious metals from the Nuruosmaniye Gate to the Bayezit Gate, and at first it may seem that gold and silver are astonishingly cheap. But the cost of precious metals is fixed internationally, and the low price of gold and silver is due to the cheap cost of labor. Thanks to advanced machinery and techniques imported from Italy, the quality of workmanship in Turkey is much better than ever, but not all workshops are the same, so look your piece over carefully.
Some of the world's best meerschaum comes from Turkey. This heat-resistant sea foam becomes soft when wet, allowing it to be carved into playful pipes that would make a collector out of the most die-hard nonsmoker. An afternoon in a historic hamam will expose you to some of the most beautiful traditional white copper objects, available as kitchen utensils as well as bathing ones, although keep in mind that you can't cook with this toxic stuff unless the inside has been coated with tin.
As far as antiques go, shopkeepers seem to be practiced in manufacturing bogus certificates of origin that will facilitate your trip through Customs, but beware: The certificate may not be the only counterfeit item in the shop. Collectors should keep in mind that it is prohibited by Turkish law to export anything dated prior to and through the 19th century.
Less traditional items can easily fill a suitcase, and with clever Turkish entrepreneurs coming up with new merchandise on a regular basis, you won't get bored on your second visit. Pillowcases, embroidered tablecloths, ornamental tea services, and brass coffee grinders are just some of the goodies that never seem to get old.
A Note About Bargaining
That old measure by which you should offer the seller half of his initial price is old hat. They've caught on to our shopping savvy, and bump up the price accordingly. I've heard that a good rule of thumb is to offer about 25% less than you're willing to pay, but in my experience, you must hold off your counteroffer for as long as you can get away with it. This method will meet with varying responses, but after a few times, you'll get the hang of it.
Also, after you've narrowed down your choice to two pieces, snub your first choice and put it down (with plans to come back to it later). Negotiate on your second choice -- undoubtedly one of the finer samples in the shop, and therefore one of the pricier items on sale. Once you've established that it's out of your price range, turn to your first choice with a disappointed "and what about that one."
Especially for Kids
Even though Turks are notorious pushovers for their children, Istanbul isn't really a kid-friendly destination; even the most privileged and well educated children will get bored trudging around the recesses of ancient Byzantium. Istanbul does have a series of kid-related cultural events, though, including the Rahmi M. Koç Museum (Hasköy Caddesi 27; tel. 0212/297-6639; www.rmk-museum.org.tr/english), a hands-on series of exhibitions a la Smithsonian showcasing the history of human ingenuity in the areas of transportation, industry, and communications. The transparent washing machines, carburetors, decommissioned submarine bridge, trains, and aircraft will definitely push the buttons of any preteen boy (and then some), and is definitely worth a visit. Admission is $3.50 for adults and $1 for students, plus $1.75 and 70¢, respectively, for entry to the submarine exhibit.
The Çiragan Palace (tel. 800/426-3135) has outfitted a special playroom for kids to distract the little ones during the hotel's Sunday brunch. Children under 6 get in free; those ages 6 to 12 pay half the price of the standard brunch. The Swissôtel (tel. 0212/326-1100, ext. 3305) has a similar setup in their K Club; adults pay $23 per person for brunch, kids get in for half-price. Meanwhile, kudos to the Hilton (tel. 0212/315-6000) for management's bravery in inviting kids into the kitchen to bake cookies, allowing parents to enjoy a relaxing Sunday brunch. The Hilton also has a supervised playroom with activities and a smattering of
requisite Sony PlayStations.
Libraries
The British Council, Istiklal Cad. 251, Beyoglu (tel. 0212/249-0574; Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9:30am-2:30pm), is a nonprofit cultural outreach center working for educational and cultural relations. The library is one of the best resources for multilingual information on antiquities in Turkey, as well as a great reference center for translations of Turkish literary works. There's a huge collection of English-language books on all subjects, in addition to CDs, music, and videos. The center is popular with students of the English language.
For books and historical documents on Istanbul, the Turkish Touring and Automobile Club runs the Istanbul Library located in one of the old Ottoman houses it restored on Sogukçesme Sokagi in Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/512-5730; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).
In a forgotten ancient building across from the Fener jetty on the Golden Horn is the Women's Library (Kadin Eserleri Kütüphanesi; tel. 0212/534-9550; Mon-Fri 10:30am-6:30pm; closed for religious holidays). Founded by Füsun Akatli, a renowned Turkish writer, the library has grown into a collection of materials -- mostly in Turkish but some in English -- featuring female artists, photographers, directors, and artisans. There's also a section on women in Istanbul and on women in Ottoman dress.
The Istanbul Archaeology Museum (tel. 0212/520-7740) has a library of over 60,000 volumes on the subject of archaeology, and will be opened upon request.
Historic Hamams (Turkish Baths)
The number of hamams in Istanbul mushroomed in the 18th century when the realization hit that they were big business. Mahmut I had the Cagaloglu Hamami built to finance the construction of his library near the Ayasofya, but later that century new constructions were limited because the hamams were using up the city's resources of water and wood. Only about 20 hamams have survived, the most visited of which are the palatial Çemberlitas Hamami, Vezirhan Cad. 8 (off Divanyolu at the Column of Constantine; tel. 0212/522-7974; $25 bath, massage, and kese [a scrubbing using an abrasive mitt], including tip; $10 bath only; daily 6am-midnight with separate sections; MasterCard and Visa accepted), which was based on a design by Sinan, and the 18th-century Cagaloglu Hamami, Yerebatan Caddesi at Ankara Caddesi (tel. 0212/522-2424; $15 bath, massage, and kese, including tip; daily 7am-10pm for men, 8am-8pm for women), which allegedly saw the bare bottoms of Franz Liszt, Edward VIII, Kaiser Wilhelm, and Florence Nightingale, and even had a part as an extra in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.
The Tarihi Galatasaray Hamami, Sütterazi Sok. 24, Beyoglu (from Istiklal Caddesi in front of the Galatasaray High School, it's the second street to the left of the gate; tel. 0212/249-4342; $25 combined massage and kese; daily 5am-midnight for men, 8am-8pm for women), was built by Beyazit II as part of the Galata Sarayi school complex. The men's section is generally accepted as gay.
Probably the most spectacular hamam in Istanbul is the Haseki Sultan Hamami, in Sultanahmet Parki. Built by Sinan in 1557 on a symmetrical plan that provided two separate sections of identical domed halls, the hamam was decommissioned in later years when it was found that the elongated layout resulted in too much heat loss. The Haseki Sultan Hamami is now a beautifully restored exhibition center for Dösim and is used for textile and carpet displays.
Steam Heat: Taking the Hamam
In characteristic socially conscious fashion, the Selçuks were the ones to adopt the Roman and Byzantine tradition of public bathing and treat it like a public work. Lacking baths or running water at home, society embraced the hamam, which evolved into not only a place to cleanse body and soul, but a social destination as well. Even the accoutrements of the hamam took on symbols of status: wooden clogs inlaid with mother of pearl, towels embroidered with gold thread, and so on. Men gathered to talk about politics, sports, or women, while the ladies kept an eagle eye out for suitable wives for their sons.
Hamams were generally designed with separate sections for men and women, and anyone caught trespassing on the wrong side would be sentenced to death. Today it's not uncommon to find a co-ed hamam, except that insensitive (and flaccid) members of the opposite sex can detract from the experience, although most do cover up. Better to stick to a hamam that provides alternating times for the two sexes.
The utility of the hamam has evolved and fallen out of daily use, probably because the neighborhood ones have a reputation for being dirty, and the historic ones come with a hefty admission charge. But when experienced sparingly and in the right spirit, a visit to a hamam can be a cleansing one -- for both mind and body.
The main entrance of a Turkish bath opens up to a camekan, a central courtyard lined with changing cubicles surrounding an ornamental marble fountain. Visitors are presented with the traditional pestamal, a checkered cloth worn like a sarong (up higher for women . . .). Many first-time visitors have questions about how much clothing to take off; in segregated hamams it's customary and acceptable to strip, although more modest individuals may feel more comfortable wearing a bathing suit. Valuables are secured in a private locker, provided for each customer, although it's a good idea to leave the best of it at home.
The experience begins past the cooling section (and often the toilets), into the steam room, or hararet. For centuries architects worked to perfect the design of the hararet: a domed, octagonal (or square) room, often with marvelous oculi to provide entry for sunlight, with intricate basins at various intervals and a heated marble platform, known as the naval stone, in the center. Often the hamam is covered with elaborately crafted and ornately designed tiles.
Hamam protocol goes like this: As you lie on the platform, a half-naked attendant (woman attendants wear panties, men wear pestamals; your attendant may be male or female) will soap you up and give you a scrubbing using an abrasive mitt (kese) aimed at removing the outer layer of dead skin and other organic detritus. In hotel hamams, you're guaranteed a new mitt; not so in local ones, although the Çemberlitas Hamami now offers a pretty package containing a mitt and olive-oil soap for an additional $2.70. The massage is next -- although techniques vary in intensity, you may want to instruct your masseur or masseuse to go easy to avoid having your kneecaps pummeled into a slab of marble. Finally you'll be instructed to move over to one of the low marble basins, where your attendant will wash your hair, using a lovely engraved copper tas (bowl) for rinsing. If you've been nice (and tipped in advance, if allowed), you may even get a relaxing facial massage. You'll receive a definitive tap on the shoulder followed by "You like?" -- an indication that your session is over. At this point you are most likely dehydrated and sleepy, which is when the purpose of that cold room with the lounge chairs becomes evident. Refreshments are available and the price list is usually displayed nearby. You can go back into the hararet as often as you like, but an hour total in the hamam is usually more than enough.
The experience can be delightful and highly utilitarian during those hot summer days when a power outage has cut the water pumps off. Sign up for "the works" at least once and you'll forever reminisce about how you spent an hour in a room with a bunch of naked ladies (or men -- or both).
Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi)
Residence of the sultans, administrative seat of the Ottoman Empire for almost 400 years, and the source of legend on life in the harem, Topkapi Palace should be up at the top of the list for anyone interested in the vast and exotic world behind the seraglio walls. It's impossible to rush through the palace, so you should allot at least a half-day and be prepared to encounter a few bottlenecks throughout the enclosed exhibition halls, especially in the Holy Relics Room where the ardent faithful, in their religious fervor, tend to obstruct the display cases.
Built by Mehmet the Conqueror over the ruins of Constantine's Imperial Palace, Topkapi Palace occupies one of the seven hills of the city at the tip of the historic peninsula overlooking the sea. Easily the most valuable real estate in the city, it doesn't take a brain surgeon to see why this spot was preferable to the original palace situated on an inland tract where the university stands today. Mehmet II began construction of the palace 9 years after his conquest of the city, where the sultans reigned continually until 1855, when Abdülmecid moved the imperial residence up the Bosphorus to Dolmabahçe Palace.
Entrance to the grounds is through the Gate of Augustus at the end of the Babuhümayun Caddesi (also called the Bab-i Hümayün Gate), behind the Ayasofya, named for the square outside the gate that in Byzantine times was a busy crossroads called the Forum of Augustus. Serving as the entrance through which the public would access the grounds, the gate would often display the decapitated heads of uncooperative administrators or rebels as a warning to all who entered.
Just outside the gate is the Ahmet III Fountain, built by Mehmet Aga in 1729 atop an ancient source of water as a gift to Sultan Ahmet. A poem by the sultan is inscribed in the stone, inviting passersby to "drink the water and pray from the House of Ahmet."
The first courtyard, known as the Court of the Janissaries, is a public park of gardens and trees, just as it was in earlier days. Along the center path are the remains of a 5th-century Roman cistern. (You can save this for the way out.)
The diagonal path to the left leads to the stunning Hagia Eirene (St. Irene), the second largest Byzantine church after Ayasofya, and a church that predates the arrival of Constantine's conquest of the city. The first temple on the site was dedicated to the goddess Aphrodite, then enlarged by Constantine and later reconstructed by Justinian after its near destruction (along with that of the Ayasofya) in the Nika Revolt. Excavation between 1946 and 1950 indicates that a series of buildings existed connecting the church with the Ayasofya, and the fact that both churches were completed and rededicated at about the same time indicates that these houses of worship were in some way part of a complex. The buildings were later demolished to make room for construction of the palace walls. Rumor has it that Mehmet the Conqueror's Italian consort convinced him to store the house porcelain there, where she could then secretly go and pray, but for the record, the Ottomans used the church as an arsenal. Hagia Eirene is closed to the public but is used as a venue for concerts and recitals during the International Istanbul Music Festival in the summertime. The church may be opened on special request (tel. 0212/520-6952).
The ticket booths to the palace are located on the right side of the courtyard. Proceed to the Ortakapi (middle gate), known as the "Gate Of Salutation", roughly translated from the Arabic (Turkish version) Babüsselâm.
Added by Süleyman the Magnificent in 1524, this gate signaled to all but the sultan to dismount before proceeding into the palace. On either side of the gate are two octagonal towers that essentially served as death row for those who fell out of favor; after a prisoner's execution, the body would be left outside the gate. To the right of the gate (facing), is a marble fountain where the executioner would wash the blood off his hands before reentering the palace.
Begin your visit with the Palace Kitchens, a complex comprised of a string of lofty chambers topped by a series of chimney-domes, a narrow inner courtyard and a smaller string of rooms. The largest in the world, the kitchens at one time employed over 1,000 servants working day and night to serve the 5,000 residents of the palace, a number that swelled to 15,000 during Ramadan.
At the far end is the original wooden kitchen that survived a 16th-century fire; Sinan, who reconstructed the kitchens, added the massive conical chimneys and enlarged the original space. Suspended from the iron bars in the ceiling were the cauldrons, raised or lowered over the fire pits below according to the desired intensity of the flame.
The kitchens are now used to exhibit the palace's rich collection of porcelain numbering close to 12,000 pieces, not all of which are displayed. Topkapi houses the third most important collection of porcelain in the world, after Beijing and Dresden, while the palace's collection of celadons surpasses that of Beijing because the Chinese destroyed all of theirs during the Cultural Revolution. Besides these 4th- and 5th-century celadons are pieces from the Sung and Yuan dynasties (9th-13th centuries), pieces from the Ming Dynasty (14th and 17th centuries), and porcelain from the Ching Dynasty (16th-20th centuries). Many of these treasures found their way to Istanbul as gifts exchanged between the Ottomans, Chinese, and Persians as symbols of solidarity towards the maintenance and protection of the roads. There's also a rich collection of silver, particularly coffee services, candelabras, and mirrors (ornamented on the backside because of the proscription requiring the reflective side to be lain face down), and a display of Venetian glass and Bohemian crystal. The Ahmet III Fountain outside the main entrance is reproduced here in a stunning mass of silver, but there are examples of collectibles on a less grandiose scale as well.
Following a direct path along the length of the palace grounds, proceed to the Gate of Felicity (Babüssaade), also known as the Gate of the White Eunuchs. For 400 years, enthronement ceremonies were held at the entrance to this gate, today used as a backdrop for the annual presentation of Mozart's Abduction from the Seraglio during the International Istanbul Music Festival. Decapitated heads found their way above this gate as well.
Only the sultan and the grand vizier were allowed past this gate into the third courtyard (while the Valide Sultan used a back gate for entrances and exits), the private quarters of the palace. Immediately inside the Gate of Felicity and acting as a visual barrier to the private quarters beyond is the Throne Room, a pavilion used by the sultan as an audience chamber to receive (or affront) visiting ambassadors. Notice the interlocking marble used in the construction of the arched doorway; this design technique reinforced the archway and protected it against earthquakes.
Directly to the right is the Seferliler Quarters, now housing the Palace Clothing Exhibition or Imperial Wardrobe. Because the sultan's clothing was considered to be holy, a sultan's wardrobe would be wrapped up and preserved in the palace. This opulent display of silk, brocade, and gold-threaded clothing is only a small portion of the whole collection and includes enormously baggy costumes (to give the sultan the visual advantage of size), along with caftans and other garments showing influences from around the empire.
Past the Palace Clothing Exhibition is the Fatih Pavilion, containing a recently restored exhibition of the Treasury, one of the greatest collections of treasures in the world. In 400 years a sultan can amass a great quantity of wealth, supplied through spoils of war, gifts from neighboring kings and queens, and the odd impulse buy. The rooms were off-limits to everyone but the sultan, and in his absence, any visitor was required to be accompanied by at least 40 other men.
Room no. 1 of the Treasury is a collection of Ottoman objects and ceremonial thrones, including one in pure gold, weighing in at 550 pounds, presented to Murat III in 1585 by the Egyptian governor; an ebony throne crafted for Süleyman the Magnificent; and a jewel-encrusted throne, presented to Mahmut I by Nadir Shah of India.
The eye is immediately drawn to the jewel-studded mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell throne of Sultan Ahmet I, crafted by the master of inlay, Mehmet Aga, the same man commissioned by the sultan to build the Blue Mosque. (Rumor has it that during his 1995 visit, Michael Jackson requested permission to sit in one of the thrones; however, his request was denied.) Also of note in room no. 1 is the sword belonging to Süleyman the Magnificent, with his name and title inscribed on the blade.
Room no. 2 of the Treasury displays a collection of medals, and non-Ottoman objects and gifts (or plunder) received through the spoils of war. Immediately to the left of the exterior door is a holy relic -- a piece of St. John the Baptist's skull and a section of his forearm, enclosed within a solid gold model. Other highlights include figurines crafted in India from seed pearls, and in the same case, a miniature tree of life and a vessel presented as gifts to the tomb of Mohammed.
The focus of room no. 3 is a pair of shoulder-high candlesticks crafted of solid gold and caked with several thousand brilliants/diamonds and weighing over 105 pounds each. In a world absent of electricity, candlesticks like these would be placed on either side of the mihrab to provide light for the reading of the holy book. This pair was presented to the tomb of Mohammed in Medina and brought back to Istanbul after World War I. The rest of the exhibit in room no. 3, an overwhelming collection of jade, rock crystal, zinc, emeralds, and other precious gems, displays Ottoman objects made by artists and craftsmen for the sultans throughout the centuries.
Room no. 4 is the Treasury's pièce de la résistance, a breathtaking view into the wealth of the Ottoman Empire. The famous Topkapi Dagger is here, weighted down by a row of emeralds and diamonds in the hilt and on the cover. This dagger was the protagonist in the 1964 film Topkapi (with Peter Ustinov), an amusing film about a plot to rob the Palace Museum. The actual dagger was intended as a gift from Sultan Mahmud I to Nadir Shah to warn him of an impending conspiracy on his life, but was returned by the couriers following a bloody revolution in which the shah was killed.
You'll notice a group of people hovering around a case at the far end of room no. 4, displaying the 86-caret Spoon Maker's Diamond, or Kasikdi Diamond, the fifth largest diamond in the world glittering in a setting of 49 smaller diamonds. The diamond was actually discovered in the 17th century in a city dump by a local peddler who sold it to a jeweler for pennies.
The exhibit finishes with a stunning collection of "lesser" diamonds and gems, plus the gold and jewel-encrusted chain mail of Sultan Mustafa III. Also of note is the ceremonial sword, attributed to either Caliph Osman (7th c.) or Osman Gazi (13th c.), and used in any sultan's inauguration, usually in front of Eyüp Sultan Mosque.
Another piece of note is the golden cradle in which newborn sons were presented to the sultans, as well as an emerald pendant with 48 strings of pearls originally sent by Sultan Abdülhamid I as a gift to the tomb of the Prophet Mohammed in Mecca. The pendant was returned to Istanbul after Mecca was no longer within the borders of the empire.
Exit the courtyard down the stairs to the right through a long passage. To the right and parallel to the sea is the second terrace, affording one of the best views in the city. Imagine the days of seaside attacks on the palace walls as you watch the maritime traffic go by. During Byzantine times, a chain, composed of links .75m (2 1/2 ft.) long, was forged to span the Golden Horn and prevent enemy ships from accessing the waterway.
Take a Break at the Topkapi Palace--After touring the Treasury, you've reached the halfway point and a good place to stop for lunch or drinks. The expansive Konyali restaurant (tel. 0212/513-9696) includes indoor and outdoor dining rooms, as well as an outdoor cafeteria-style snack bar.
This fourth courtyard was the realm of the sultan, and a stroll around the gardens will reveal some lovely examples of Ottoman kiosk architecture. Near the center of the upper level of the courtyard is the Mustafa Pasa Kiosk, the oldest building in the complex, which served as the physician's quarters and as a wardrobe for the sultan needing to effect swift changes during state functions. From the picture window overlooking the gardens, the sultan was known to observe wrestling matches, and even join in every now and again.
Perched on the upper terrace at the northernmost corner of the palace complex is the Baghdad Kiosk, magnificently sited to take best advantage of the views of the Golden Horn. The kiosk is decorated with priceless Iznik tiles, both inside and out. In addition to the tiles, the interior space is embellished with stained glass and crowned by a dome decorated with a traditional Ottoman motif in gold leaf. The kiosk served the sultan in colder weather; occupants of the kiosk were warmed by the central brazier.
The circumcision rooms, rarely opened to the public, are also located in the fourth courtyard.
Backtrack through the passage and up the steps into the third courtyard. To the right past the Museum Directorate is the Dormitory of the Pages of the Imperial Treasury, formerly used to display decorative calligraphy from the Koran as well as jeweled Koran sets. At press time the dormitory was closed.
At the far corner of the third courtyard is the Holy Relic Section, the largest collection in the world of this type, containing the personal belongings of the Prophet Mohammed, the caliphs, and even the unexpected staff of Moses. The items on display were brought back to Istanbul by Selim the Grim in 1517, following his conquest of the holy cities of Mecca and Medina, and after declaring himself caliph. Since the Kaa'ba was restored annually, pieces of the mosque were regularly kept as ornamentation for mosques.
This collection was off-limits to anyone but the most favored members of the sultan's family, and was only open to public viewing in 1962. The domed space is ornamented with Iznik tiles and quotations from the Koran along with a priceless set of rain gutters, an intricately carved door, and an old set of keys taken from the Kaa'ba. Directly opposite the entrance are the four sabers belonging to the first four caliphs, and the first-ever copy of the Koran, documented on deerskin.
To the right is the Mohammed Chamber, fronted by a booth in which an imam (religious guide) has been reciting passages from the Koran continually for the past 500 years. This tradition was started by Mehmet II and sets the stage for the collection of holy relics within. The golden cloth that once covered the black stone in the central courtyard of the Kaa'ba in Mecca now hangs in this exhibit, as a new one is richly prepared each year. Considered a gift falling from the heavens, the stone prompted Abraham to build a temple on the spot, attracting worshipers from all faiths for several hundred years. The display cases are hidden behind religious fervents communing with the spirit of the prophet through relics of his hair, a tooth, his footprints, and even soil from his grave. The Holy Mantle, the most sacred item in the collection, is contained in a gold coffer and sequestered in an inaccessible area of this room behind a grilled door.
Turkish and Iranian miniatures as well as portraits of Ottoman sultans are exhibited in the rooms next to the one containing the Holy Relics. While the original collection amounts to a total of 13,000 specimens, this exhibit comes nowhere near this number. The main draw is the collection of portraits (both copies and originals) modeled after those painted by some of the Renaissance's most celebrated artists (Veronese, Bellini). Lacking any record of the physiological characteristics of the first 12 sultans, the Ottomans had the ones painted by the Venetians brought back to Istanbul in 1579.
In the center of the courtyard is the Ahmet III Library, constructed in the 16th century of white marble and recently restored and opened to the public. The bookcases are inlaid with ivory and contain about 6,000 volumes of Arab and Greek manuscripts. The stained glass is from the early 17th century; the platform divan seating is typically Ottoman, and the carpets are over 500 years old.
Return to the second courtyard, where along the right side you will come upon the Imperial Armory, a collection of arms and objects acquired during the various military campaigns. Mehmet the Conqueror's sword is here, as is Süleyman the Magnificent's, but it's the unattributed 2.5m (8-ft.) one that really impresses.
Before entering the Harem, take a peek into the Imperial Council Hall, or Divan, constructed during the reign of Süleyman the Magnificent. State affairs were conducted here while the sultan eavesdropped from the grate above, which leads directly to the Harem. From this concealed position, the sultan could interrupt proceedings with a motion to his grand vizier and call for a private conference whenever the need arose. His wife, Roxelana, would often secretly attend these sessions, a privilege that ended in several unfortunate fatalities.
To visit the Harem you must purchase a ticket for one of the tours near the Carriage Gate entrance next to the Divan; your tour time will be indicated on your ticket. Tours depart on the half-hour and last about 30 minutes. Buy your ticket to the Harem at the beginning of your visit to the palace because when the tour buses arrive, the wait on both the ticket and entry lines can be very long. Of the 400 rooms, only around 20 are on the tour, with explanations that are not always audible or, for that matter, intelligible. Nonetheless, the tour is worth taking.
The Harem has three main sections: the outer quarters of the Black Eunuchs charged with guarding the Harem; the inner stone courtyard for the concubines; and the apartments facing the sea reserved for the sultan, his mother, favorite concubines, and future heirs to the throne. The tour begins at the Carriage Gate, where the sultan's mother and wives would be whisked away unseen by outsiders during exits and entrances. Past the first Guard Room is a long courtyard lined with cells that served as the Barracks of the Black Eunuchs. The upper levels were reserved for the younger eunuchs, with the lower cells housing the older ones. Winding through the maze of additions, the tour comes to the quarters of the concubines, unheated and often unsanitary rooms around a claustrophobic stone courtyard. The only way out was to be one of the very lucky few chosen by the mother for the sultan; the others were servants to the sultan, or to the girls higher up on the hierarchy. At its most crowded, the Harem housed over 800 concubines. Even if the sultan rotated every night, the numbers were against those girls, and although some were given to the harems of state officials or Grand Viziers, many died virgins (but who knows what really went on in there . . .).
In contrast, the Apartment of the Valide Sultan, sandwiched between the girls' quarters and her son's, is a domed wonder of mother-of-pearl, ivory, tortoise shell, gold leaf, porcelain tiles, and frosted glass. The apartment consisted of a bedroom, a dining room, a chamber for prayer, and an office around a courtyard.
The sultan's private bath, furnished with the usual hamam gear but infinitely more lush, has a guarded mesh gate so that the sultan could relax without the fear of being disturbed or assassinated. The sultan's apartments are close by, and the visit continues with the Imperial Reception Hall, where celebrations or evenings of entertainment took place while musicians played discreetly from the mezzanine. While the sultan presided from his throne, the women adhered to a strict hierarchy, with the most important women seated at the center of the platform.
One of the few rooms preserving the luster of its creator is the grand domed Private Chambers of Murat III, built by Sinan in 1578. The walls are covered with a classic blue Iznik tile with red highlights, a prototype that was never duplicated. A frieze of calligraphy runs the perimeter of the room, and elegant panels of flowers and plums surround a bronze fireplace. The room is also called the Fountain Room because of the marble fountain that was kept running to mask conversations not intended for prying ears.
The Reading Room used by Ahmet I is a small but well-positioned library that affords distracting views of the convergence of the three waterways: the Golden Horn, the Marmara Sea, and the Bosphorus.
The Fruit Room is more of a breakfast nook added by Sultan Ahmet III to his private chambers. One look and it's not hard to figure out how this room got its name. The room is enveloped in fruit and floral overkill, but evidently the sultan's attentions were focused on the Harem pool out the window.
The next stop on the Harem tour is at the twin apartments of the crown prince, better known as The Cage. In the early years of the empire, a crowned prince was well prepared to fulfill his destiny as a leader, beginning his studies in these rooms and later moving on to actual field experience in one of the provinces. When the practice of fratricide was abandoned, brothers of the sultan were sequestered in these rooms, where they either went crazy or languished in the lap of luxury -- or both. The opulence of the stained glass and the tile work and the mother-of-pearl inlaid cabinets belie the chambers' primary function as a jail cell, which supports a recent discovery that the actual cage was located in another part of the Harem. The tour guides continue to perpetuate the myth by billing these two rooms as the bona fide cage.
The Harem tour comes to an end at the Courtyard of the Favorites, surrounded by a charming building recalling the medieval residences of Florence. The apartments on the upper floors were reserved for the members of the Harem the sultan liked best, enjoying open space and sea views as far as the Princes' Islands. The circular spot in the center of the courtyard was covered with a tent for shaded outings, and the grooves served as water channels for cooling.
The exit to the second courtyard is through the Golden Road, a narrow stone corridor that was the crown prince's first taste of the world beyond the stifling confines of the Harem.
Sultanahmet, entrance at the end of Babuhümayun Cad., behind the Ayasofya. tel. 0212/512-0480. Admission to the palace $8.50; separate admission for both the Treasury and the Harem $7 each. Wed-Mon 9am-5pm (Harem closes at 4pm).
Monumental Mosques & Tombs
The Sehzade (meaning "Crowned Prince"), Külliyesi, Atatürk Bulvari, just south of the aqueduct (no phone; free admission; open dawn-dusk), was the first sultanic mosque and one of Sinan's early masterpieces that earned him the title of master builder or mimar. Commissioned by Süleyman in 1543, the mosque and complex was dedicated to his favorite son, Prince Mehmet, who died of smallpox at age 21. The sarcophagus was specially crafted out of wood lattice with ivory inlay -- there is no other example like it in the empire -- while the tomb is decorated with tiles, stained glass, and domes covered in arabesques. The tomb and complex are built on the site that marks the exact center of Old Istanbul, a fact that probably influenced the architect's decision to create an effect of perfect symmetry. From the outside, the roof looks like a graceful cascade of domes while the four central semi-domes serve to buttress and support the load of the central dome. For many years the Sehzade remained the largest building in Istanbul, but even before the mosque was completed, Süleyman ordered the construction of another grander mosque as a monument to his reign.
Take a Break & Soak Up Some Romance
If you've made it all the way to Eyüp to visit the mosque, take a short detour to Pierre Loti, Gümüssuyu Balmumcu Sok. 1 (tel. 0212/581-2696), the cafe of legend and a spectacular spot for serene views of the Golden Horn. The legend goes that French naval officer Julien Viaud fell in love with Aziyade, a married Turkish woman, during his first visit to Istanbul around 1876. The young woman would sneak out of her husband's harem when he was away for the chance to spend a few fleeting moments in the arms of her lover at his house in the hills of Eyüp. After an absence from Turkey for 10 years, Viaud returned to find Aziyade had died soon after his departure. Viaud gained fame during his lifetime, and his stories are romantic accounts much like the one of legend. This cafe, on the hill of Eyüp, was a favorite of his, and for reasons unknown, became known as Pierre Loti Kahvesi. Eyüp's historical cemetery is on the hill next to the cafe. The cafe is open daily 8am to midnight; no food or alcohol is served here; avoid weekends, when nary an empty table will be your reward for the ride up.
Click the names below for more detailed information.
Sights along the Bosphorus
For over 2,500 years, kings and commanders have confronted the challenge of the Bosphorus, building rudimentary bridges out of boats and floating jetties to increase the size of their empires. Mandrokles of Samos crossed on huge connecting floats in 512 B.C. Persian Emperor Xerxes built a temporary bridge, as did Heraclius I of Byzantium, who crossed a chain of pontoons on horseback. Now that several bridges connect the shores of Europe and Asia, staying on the water has become more fashionable than actually crossing it. The shores are dotted with yalis, or classic waterfront mansions, built as early as the 18th century: yellow, pink, and blue wooden palaces perched along the waterfront. The surrounding neighborhoods (best visited by land) retain much of their characteristic villagey feel, in stark contrast to the restored homes inhabited by the likes of ex-Prime Minister Tansu Çillar.
Cruising up the straits is a bit easier these days than when Jason and the Argonauts sailed through in search of the Golden Fleece. A number of local tour companies organize daylong or half-day boat cruises up the Bosphorus on private boats, often with a stop at the Rumeli Fortress and visits to Beylerbeyi Sarayi. Unless you've gotten a guarantee that the tour will not wind up on one of the public ferries, skip the tour and hop on one of the less pristine (but serviceable) city ferries and go the route yourself.
A one-way ticket on the public ferry costs about $1.50. You can get on at either Eminönü or at the docks at Besiktas near Dolmabahçe Sarayi, and disembark at will, ideally planning to arrive at one of the fishing villages in time for lunch. The last stop at Sariyer is the most visited -- and therefore the most touristy, but the potential for a side trip to the Sadberk Hanim Museum (Büyükdere Cad. 27-29, Sariyer; tel. 0212/242-3813; Thurs-Tues 10:30am-6pm; admission $3.50) continues to make this disembarkation point the most popular. The museum, located in an old Ottoman house overlooking a section of the Bosphorus that was an old dockyard, houses a limited but excellent collection of artifacts representative of the progression of civilizations in Anatolia. If you're already up here, then it's worth a look; otherwise, you'll get a more comprehensive presentation of the same themes at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara.
A lesser appreciated alternative is to get off at Anadolu Kavagi instead, hike up the hill to the "Crusader's Castle" -- named for a carved cross decoration dating to the crusader invasion but actually a Byzantine structure used as a Genoese Palace in the 14th century -- and enjoy outstanding views of the European side.
The trip by sea from Eminönü (departures at 10:35am [winter only] and 1:35pm; the ferry makes a stop in Besiktas approximately 15 min. later) to the last stop at Anadolu Kavagi takes 2 hours (allow 6 hr. for the full round-trip excursion), with only two return departures leaving at 3 and 5pm, a schedule that pretty much restricts the amount of jumping on and off you can realistically do in 1 day. Alternatively, you may want to take an organized tour, which provides the advantage of door-to-door transportation and usually two sightseeing destinations. Note: Since ferry schedules are prone to minuscule changes and since they don't dally at the piers, I recommend that you pick up the most current schedule at the tourist information office, and be on time.
Click the names below for more detailed information.
Exploring Taksim, Tünel & Beyoglu
Aside from a few remnants of another century, the point of a visit to Taksim Square (Taksim Meydani) is less a walk back in time than a look into the futures of both Istanbul and Turkey. The imprint of time has nevertheless left its mark on these districts, where you can stroll past the turn-of-the-19th-century ambassadorial palaces and barracks while shopping for an expensive pair of Levi's.
Click the names below for more detailed information.
Click the names below for more detailed information.
Palaces of the Sultans
While the power and prestige of a new and modern Europe were increasing, the Ottoman Empire was on its last leg. To create an image of a prosperous and Westernized empire, Sultan Abdülmecid had the Dolmabahçe Palace constructed on European models and abandoned Topkapi Palace and what he considered to be the symbol of an old order. With the official residence of the Ottoman Empire now on the northern shores of the Bosphorus, it wasn't long before members of the court and government officials began to build mansions in the area. More palaces sprang up, and the official shifting of power from south of the Golden Horn to Besiktas was complete. If the royal palaces fail to convince you of the Ottoman Empire's extravagance during its final economic decline, they will surely convince you of its opulence.
Click the names below for more detailed information.
Introduction to Istanbul
Rarely will a visit to Turkey exclude the burgeoning, chaotic, confused, messy, muddled, and glorious wonder that is Istanbul. Istanbul is home to a layering of civilization on civilization, of empire built on empire. It's as momentous as Rome, as captivating as Paris, and as exotic as Bangkok (this last is potentially a bad thing).
A city that straddles both Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a symbol of greatness, coveted historically by everyone from Xerxes all the way down the historic dateline through World War I, when Russia was green with envy over the possibilities of what free passage through the Bosphorus Straits could do for its economy. Even today, foreign commerce gets a free ride as hundreds of thousands of sometimes oversized and hazardous ships stream up and down this epic waterway.
The traditions inherited from 2,500 years of history are most evident in the Old City, known as Old Stamboul or Sultanahmet. A stroll through this historic peninsula will reveal ancient Roman hippodromes, peristyles, and aqueducts, the greatest excesses of the Byzantine Empire, the mystique and power of the Ottoman Empire, and the dubious sales tactics used by the city's self-made entrepreneurs. As a religious center (heart of the Greek Orthodox Church as well as the Islamic faith for centuries), Istanbul is the custodian of one of the world's most important cultural heritages and home to some of the world's most opulent displays of art and wealth. Early Greek civilization left us the building blocks for Rome and Byzantium, which swathed these earlier foundations in rich mosaics and left its mark in monuments such as the Hippodrome and Ayasofya. Even Fatih Mehmet II was astounded at the beauty of the city he had finally conquered. The Ottoman dynasty redirected the city's fortunes into the imperial majesty of undulating domes and commanding minarets, and the sumptuousness of Topkapi Palace.
Across the Golden Horn is the modern heart of the city, heir to the future of the country, vibrant with all the electricity of a cutting-edge international metropolis. Although the political capital sits safely in the heartland, this part of Istanbul projects itself into the world as Turkey's ambassador of art, entertainment, music, and education.
Today Istanbul is home to almost 14 million of the 65 million people living in Turkey, many of whom are poor village folk who've migrated to the big bad city out of economic need. Over brunch, the residents of the more prosperous neighborhoods along the Bosphorus revile the poor wedged into the squalid back streets of Galata, while the religious fundamentalists of the Fatih neighborhood stare out through their veils in disapproval. All of the contradictions of a complex society in transition converge in Istanbul; the city is a microcosm of the tug-of-war between East and West and the "haves" and the "have-nots." Many of these have-nots develop get-rich-quick schemes to capitalize on the traffic brought in by the city's monumental past. It's a cold, calculating, and cruel world out there, but with a little mental preparedness, one that can be easily overcome. In Rome, preadolescent gypsies prey on tourists, in New York, it's the street dice men, and in Istanbul, it's just about anybody multilingual in Sultanahmet.
Yet, however nonrepresentative Istanbul is of Turkey as a whole, however unscrupulous the merchants can be, and however disinterested much of the population may be over the city's fantastic roots, Istanbul is so exotic, wonderful, complex, and utterly monumental, that once seen, it's impossible to break free from its spell.
Youth and Sports Day
19 May 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Every 19 May, dignitaries, politicians and military leaders celebrate the historic arrival of Ataturk at Samsun - the event that marked the beginning of Turkey's War of Independence in 1919.
International Istanbul Puppet Festival
May 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
The annual International Istanbul Puppet Festival hosts many famous national and international puppeteers, including groups from Germany, Austria, Brazil, Spain, Switzerland, Italy, Russia and Taiwan.
Youth and Sports Day
19 May 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Every 19 May, dignitaries, politicians and military leaders celebrate the historic arrival of Ataturk at Samsun - the event that marked the beginning of Turkey's War of Independence in 1919.
Red Bull Air Race World Series: Istanbul
2 Jun 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
The Red Bull Air race series stages spectacular stunt-flying competitions across the world. Fearless pilots race at speeds of up to 400 km/h through low-level inflatable "air gates" to the…
Situated in the heart of the Taksim area, the Roxy Bar is famous for its live music and raw, lively atmosphere. The bar is open to all forms of music, although nu-jazz, rock, Latin, electronic…
» Read more
International Istanbul Music Festival
2 - 30 Jun 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
A series of diverse annual arts festivals has developed over the last few decades to make Istanbul one of the world's great festival cities. For the International Istanbul Music Festival, two…
International Istanbul Puppet Festival
May 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
The annual International Istanbul Puppet Festival hosts many famous national and international puppeteers, including groups from Germany, Austria, Brazil, Spain, Switzerland, Italy, Russia and Taiwan.
Youth and Sports Day
19 May 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Every 19 May, dignitaries, politicians and military leaders celebrate the historic arrival of Ataturk at Samsun - the event that marked the beginning of Turkey's War of Independence in 1919.
Istanbul Cup
21 - 27 May 2007 (annual)
Tekstilkent Arena
The Istanbul Cup is played on clay at the Tekstilkent Arena. As one of the 63 tournaments on the Sony Ericsson WTA tour, the event attracts players from the world's Top 20, and former winners…
Red Bull Air Race World Series: Istanbul
2 Jun 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
The Red Bull Air race series stages spectacular stunt-flying competitions across the world. Fearless pilots race at speeds of up to 400 km/h through low-level inflatable "air gates" to the…
Chocolate Show
Jun 2007 (annual)
Hilton Convention & Exhibition Centre
Istanbul Hilton Convention & Exhibition Centre hosts Chocolate Show, Turkey's chocolate, confectionery and biscuit fair.
International Istanbul Music Festival
2 - 30 Jun 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
A series of diverse annual arts festivals has developed over the last few decades to make Istanbul one of the world's great festival cities. For the International Istanbul Music Festival, two…
Istanbul Rock Republic Open Air Festival
Jul 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Major Music Promotions presents the first Istanbul Rock Republic Open Air Festival, staged in a huge area surrounded by trees in Sariyer, central Istanbul. Three days of music feature…
International Istanbul Jazz Festival
3 - 16 Jul 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
The International Istanbul Jazz Festival presents a remarkable variety of music from big names in jazz at venues all over the city.
Bosphorus
22 Jul 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Bosphorus is the annual Asia-to-Europe swimming, rowing and sailing competition organised by the National Olympic Committee of Turkey. Thousands of Turkish and international athletes aged from…
International Istanbul Fashion Festival
23 - 25 Aug 2007 (various dates)
CNR Expo
Istanbul, the second-largest supplier of clothing to the EU, hosts its international fashion festival twice a year, showcasing trends for the coming season.
Formula One: Turkish Grand Prix
26 Aug 2007 (annual)
Istanbul Park
The Istanbul Park circuit hosts the 12th race of the 2007 Formula One season - the Turkish Grand Prix.
Rock'n Coke
Sep 2007 (annual)
Hezarfen Airport
Rock'n Coke, Turkey's biggest open-air music festival, is held every year at Hezarfen Airport, 50 kilometres outside Istanbul by the shores of Lake Buyukcekmece. In 2006 the line up includes…
Istanbul Houseware & Gift Fair
Aug - Sep 2007 (annual)
Tuyap Istanbul Exhibition Palace
This annual fair at the Tuyap Istanbul Exhibition Palace offers a plethora of gift ideas for all occasions and is the fourth largest such event in the world. The event is open to both trade…
Filmekimi
Oct 2007 (annual)
Beyoðlu Emek Movie Theatre
Organised by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts, Filmekimi is an annual film festival featuring more than 20 films that have been previously screened at festivals such as Cannes…
CowParade Istanbul
1 Aug - 31 Oct 2007
Istanbul
Following in the footsteps of Paris, London, Florence, New York and another 35 international cities, Istanbul hosts an edition of CowParade, the world's biggest public art event. Around 150…
The International Istanbul Biennial Festival
8 Sep - 4 Nov 2007 (biennial)
Istanbul
Since 1987, Istanbul has hosted an International Art Biennial that offers Turkish and international artists, critics and curators the chance to exchange inspiration and meet one another.
ARTIST 2007
27 Oct - 4 Nov 2007 (annual)
Tuyap Fair
ARTIST is Istanbul's annual art fair, featuring disciplines including painting, sculpture, ceramics, photography and video. Visitors from all over Europe are present as both exhibitors and viewers.
Istanbul Book Fair
27 Oct - 4 Nov 2007 (annual)
Tuyap Istanbul Exhibition Palace
The 25th Istanbul Book Fair offers all kinds of books for purchase or perusal. It's held at the state-of-the-art Tuyap Istanbul Exhibition Palace.
Phonem by Miller
16 - 24 Nov 2007 (annual)
Istanbul
Held at various locations in Istanbul, including the Yeni Melek, Babylon and Indigo, Phonem by Miller features electronic music, alternative rock and indie-pop, bringing the most innovative…
Turkish Republic Salsa Cup
25 Nov 2007 (annual)
Refresh
Organised by various associations and dance companies, including the Salsa Schools of Istanbul, the third edition of Turkish Republic Salsa Cup is held at Refresh in Istanbul.
Contemporary Istanbul Art Fair
Dec 2007 (annual)
Lutfi Kirdar Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Center
Leading international galleries come together for Turkey's most important annual art fair. Paintings, sculptures and ceramic products, for sale or just admiration, fill the display space at…
Art Istanbul International
Dec 2007 (annual)
Lutfi Kirdar Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Center
Art Istanbul International is Turkey's annual exhibition of contemporary art, presenting a huge selection of works from more than 100 national and international galleries, universities and…
Wine Istanbul
Jan 2008 (annual)
Istanbul World Trade Centre
Wine Istanbul, at the Istanbul World Trade Centre, is quickly gaining international recognition. Trade visitors and wine lovers can sample domestic and imported wines, check out new wine…
International Istanbul Fashion Festival
Feb 2008 (various dates)
CNR Expo
Istanbul, the second-largest supplier of clothing to the EU, hosts its international fashion festival twice a year, showcasing trends for the coming season.
International Motorcycle Fair
Mar - Apr 2008 (annual)
Lutfi Kirdar Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Center
The Istanbul International Motorcycle Fair, held at the Lütfi Kýrdar Rumeli Exhibition Center, attracts more than 40,000 speed enthusiasts every year. Visitors can peruse the latest models of…
Istanbul International Film Festival
Mar - Apr 2008 (annual)
Istanbul
The Istanbul Film Festival attracts 85,000 visitors every year with a programme covering everything from art, culture and feature films to literature, music and theatre.
Roxy Bar
Sep 2007 - Jun 2008 (annual)
Roxy Bar
Situated in the heart of the Taksim area, the Roxy Bar is famous for its live music and raw, lively atmosphere. The bar is open to all forms of music, although nu-jazz, rock, Latin, electronic…
Cemberlitas Hammam
Daily
Cemberlitas Hammam
The Cemberlitas Hammam in Istanbul was built in 1584 from a design by the legendary Turkish architect Sinan. This amazing man, born a Greek slave, was also responsible for the Suleymaniye…
Haghia Sophia
Daily; not Mon
Haghia Sophia
The Haghia Sophia is Istanbul's most remarkable building, which is saying something in a city with such fine architecture. Built in 535 AD by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian, this religious…
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
Daily; not Mon
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts is housed in one of Istanbul's most beautiful buildings, the Ibrahim Pasha Palace. It has a superb collection of ceramics, metalwork miniatures…
Dolmabahçe Palace
Daily; not Mon or Thu
Dolmabahçe Palace
The ornate, luxurious Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul was built as a summer retreat by the Ottoman Sultan during the 19th century.
Chora Museum
Daily; not Wed
Chora Museum
The Chora Museum in Istanbul, formerly a church, is decorated with Byzantine mosaics and frescoes, considered by many to be among the finest in the world.
Cagaloglu Hammam
Daily
Cagaloglu Hammam
The Cagaloglu Hammam was built in the 1500s and is the oldest functioning hammam (Turkish steam bath) in Istanbul. Inside, the arched portals are one feature of the building's fantastic architecture.
Rustem Pasha Mosque
Daily
Rustem Pasha Mosque
Rustem Pasha's mosque in Istanbul is without equal.
Istanbul's Markets
Daily
Istanbul
Buying things in Istanbul can be bewildering, due simply to the excessive amount of choice. Here are a few of the many markets that you can find in the city.
Blue Mosque
Daily
Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque in Istanbul was built by Sultan Ahmet I to eclipse the grandeur of the Christian church of Haghia Sophia across the way, and grand it most certainly is. During the years of its…
Spice Bazaar
Daily; not Sun
Spice Bazaar
A stroll through the bazaar is an assault on the senses - piles of spices in hessian bags fill the market, distinct for their heady scents of cardamon, chillis, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric and…
Grand Bazaar
Daily; not Sun
Grand Bazaar
Mehmet II, the first Sultan of the Ottoman empire, was responsible for the construction of Istanbul's incredible covered bazaar, the largest the world had ever known. This maze of crowded and…
Leander's Tower (Kiz Kulesi)
Daily; not Mon
Leander's Tower (Kiz Kulesi)
If you saw the James Bond movie The World
Bosphorus Boat Trip
Daily
Eminonu Docks
No visit to Istanbul is complete without a boat trip up the Bosphorus, the perfect antidote to the city's chaotic streets. The busy waterway links the Black Sea with the Mediterranean and…
Galata Bridge
Daily
Galata Bridge
As you walk over the bridge that crosses the Golden Horn (an arm of the Bosphorus), you pass fishermen casting lines into the murky water below, their often meagre rewards stored in plastic…
Galata Tower
Daily
Galata Tower
Built in the 14th century, the 12-storey Galata Tower has been a jail for prisoners of war, a shipyard, a warehouse and a fire station. Today the tower is one of Istanbul's major attractions…
Traditional Turkish Music and Dance at the Orient House
Daily
Orient House
Every night of the week, the Orient House in the President Hotel hosts a grand evening of Turkish music and dance.
Istanbul Modern
Daily; not Mon
Istanbul Modern
Located on the southern shore of the Bosphorus, Istanbul Modern is Turkey's first modern art museum, established in 2004. Placing strong emphasis on Turkish artists but showcasing…
Cemetery of the Great Eyup
Daily
Cemetery of the Great Eyup
A steep hillside walk from Eyup brings you to one of the religious districts of Istanbul. The top offers great views of the area and is home to an Ottoman cemetery and a number of shrines…
Topkapi Palace
Daily; not Tue
Topkapi Palace
The Topkapi Palace is one of the great architectural and historical treats of Istanbul, overlooking the Istanbul Bogzi and the Marmara Sea.
Whirling Dervishes
Daily
Mevlevihanesi
Each Whirling Dervish performance begins with tranquil sufi music, then the Whilrling Dervishes come out to spin, trancelike. Dressed head-to-toe in white, adorned with tall hats, they perform…
Beta Shoes
Daily
Beta Shoes
Beta's own designs of shoes, sandals and boots guarantee styles which are totally different from those back home. Featuring cute, clunky styles with thick wedges and bold colours, both men's…
Babylon
Daily; not Sun
Babylon
Istanbul's funkiest venue has regular bands and DJs from Turkey and beyond. It might be Turkish folk with techno fusion, a Balkan percussion virtuoso or just a damn fine DJ to entertain a…
Yerebatan Saray (Sunken Palace)
Daily
Yerebatan Saray
Yerebatan Saray, or the Sunken Palace, in Istanbul is an underground cistern including impressive remains of the Byzantine network of waterways, built to supply fresh water to the inhabitants…
Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir
Daily
Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir
Haci Bekir's has been producing Ottoman speciality Turkish Delight (known here as lokum) for over 200 years, and his shop is a living museum. Flavours include walnut, almond, date and ginger…
Gözde
Nardis Jazz Club
Daily
Nardis Jazz Club
Off the main drag behind Galata Tower, Nardis has built up a keen following for its nightly live jazz, mainly from local musicians. Run by jazz guitarist Onder Focan, the venue is cosy, has a…
Termal
Daily
Termal
Perched on the hills above Yalova, in true Turkish tradition, lies the resort-spa Termal. Termal is a natural hot (thermal) spring that has been famous since Roman times.
Is Merkezi
Daily
Is Merkezi
This three-storey mall of tiny shops sells surplus and seconds from designer-wear made in the city for next to nothing. Join the throng on a Saturday afternoon with noisy local teenagers and…
Suleymaniye Mosque
Daily
Suleymaniye Mosque
The Suleymaniye Mosque dominates the skyline of Istanbul, with its four slender minarets rising high above the red roofs of the old town. The minarets commemorate Sultan Suleyman the…
d is not Enough you may recall the location where M (Judi Dench) was imprisoned and James Bond (Pierce Brosnan) killed the lovely Elekra (Sophie…
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